Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist for Used Teslas

How to Use This Checklist

This checklist covers everything you should inspect when evaluating a used Tesla. Bring it with you (bookmark this page on your phone) and work through each section systematically.

Time needed: 45–60 minutes for a thorough inspection plus test drive.

What to bring:

• Phone (for photos and this checklist)
• OBD-II adapter + Scan My Tesla app (optional but recommended — see our Battery Health Guide)
• Flashlight (phone flashlight works)
• A friend (second pair of eyes is always helpful)

Exterior Inspection

Paint and Body

• Walk around the entire car — look for dents, scratches, and paint chips from 3 feet away, then up close
• Check panel gaps — run your finger along the gaps between panels (hood-to-fender, door-to-fender, trunk-to-quarter panel). Gaps should be consistent. Uneven gaps suggest body work or factory misalignment.
• Look for paint color mismatch — compare adjacent panels in direct sunlight. Mismatched paint indicates repairs.
• Inspect the front bumper — Teslas collect rock chips here. Heavy chipping is cosmetic but indicates highway mileage.
• Check the rocker panels (bottom edge of doors) — look for scrapes from curbs or speed bumps
• Inspect wheel wells — look for rust, undercoating damage, or aftermarket modifications

Glass and Roof

• Windshield — check for chips and cracks. Replacement windshields are expensive ($800–$1,500+) and require camera recalibration on vision-only models.
• Panoramic glass roof (Model Y / Model 3) — inspect the seal around the edges for gaps or lifting. Look inside for water stains on the headliner.
• All other windows — check for chips, cracks, and tint condition (if aftermarket)

Wheels and Tires

• Tire tread depth — use a penny test or tread gauge. Tires should have at least 4/32" remaining. Tesla tires wear faster than average due to the car's weight and torque.
• Tire brand and age — check the DOT date code on the sidewall (last 4 digits = week and year of manufacture). Tires older than 6 years should be replaced regardless of tread.
• Curb rash on wheels — especially on 19" sport wheels and 20"/21" performance wheels. Light rash is cosmetic; deep gouges can compromise the wheel.
• All four tires match — same brand, model, and size. Mismatched tires indicate recent replacement (and the seller may not have replaced all four).
• Tire wear pattern — uneven wear (inner vs. outer edge) suggests alignment issues or suspension wear.

Charging Port and Exterior Hardware

• Open and close the charge port — use the button on the charge port, the screen, and the app (if available). It should open and close smoothly.
• Door handles — all four should present/open smoothly. Model 3 (pre-Highland) has flush handles that can stick, especially in cold weather.
• Trunk/frunk latches — open both the front trunk and rear trunk/liftgate. Check that latches engage firmly.
• Cameras — visually inspect all exterior cameras (8 total). Look for cracks, fogging, or damage to the camera lenses.
• Lights — check all headlights, taillights, turn signals, fog lights (if equipped), and brake lights.

Interior Inspection

Seats and Upholstery

• Seat condition — check driver and passenger seat bolsters for wear, cracking, or discoloration. White interior shows wear faster.
• Seat adjustments — test all power seat adjustments (forward/back, recline, lumbar, height). Check driver memory positions.
• Rear seats — check for stains, tears, and that the folding mechanism works smoothly (60/40 split on Model 3, Model Y)
• Headliner — look for sagging, stains (especially near the glass roof), or discoloration

Dashboard and Center Console

• Touchscreen — check for dead pixels, yellowing edges (common on older MCU), touch responsiveness across the entire screen
• Center console — open all compartments. Check the wireless phone charger pad, USB ports (USB-C on newer models, USB-A on older), and cup holders.
• Steering wheel — check for wear on the grip surfaces and that both scroll wheels function correctly
• Glovebox — open it, check the USB port inside (used for dashcam storage)

Climate and Comfort

• AC blows cold — set to LO and verify cold air from all vents within 30 seconds
• Heat works — set to HI and verify warm air. On heat pump models (2020+ Model Y, 2021+ Model 3), heat should come on quickly.
• Seat heaters — test all heated seats (front and rear if equipped)
• Heated steering wheel (if equipped) — verify it warms up
• Cabin air filter smell — does the AC smell musty? The cabin filter may need replacement ($20–$40 DIY).

Cargo Areas

• Front trunk (frunk) — check for water intrusion, proper seal, and that the latch holds
• Rear cargo area — lift the floor panel and check the sub-trunk compartment. Look for water or damage.
• Model Y liftgate — opens fully, struts hold it up without sagging, closes completely

Battery & Charging

• Current charge level and displayed range — note the percentage and estimated miles. Compare to expected range for this model.
• Charge to 100% (if possible) — ask the seller to have it at 100% or charge it during your inspection. Note the max displayed range.
• Run Scan My Tesla (if you have the OBD adapter) — check full pack capacity in kWh, cell voltage balance, and battery temperature.
• Check Recurrent report — pull a free report by VIN before your visit at recurrent.com
• Plug in and verify charging — if a charger is available, plug in and confirm the car accepts charge. Check that the charge port light turns green.
• 12V battery — ask when it was last replaced. Pre-2021 models use lead-acid (lifespan 3–5 years). 2021+ use lithium (longer life). A weak 12V causes random warnings and door handle issues.

Software & Technology

• Software version — check in Settings > Software. The car should be on a recent version. Very outdated software may indicate it hasn't been connected to WiFi.
• Autopilot status — go to Autopilot settings. Verify what's included: Basic Autopilot, Enhanced Autopilot, or Full Self-Driving. Ask the seller for proof of FSD purchase if they claim it's included.
• Supercharging status — check if there are any free Supercharging credits (rare on used models, but worth checking)
• Navigation — enter a destination and verify the map loads, routes correctly, and shows Supercharger waypoints
• Bluetooth — pair your phone and test call audio and media playback
• WiFi — connect to a hotspot and verify the car can download updates
• Dashcam/Sentry Mode — check that the USB drive is recording. Review a recent Sentry Mode clip to verify all cameras are functional.
• MCU responsiveness — swipe through menus, open the web browser, load Spotify. On MCU1 (pre-2020) this will be sluggish; on Ryzen (2022+) it should be snappy.

Test Drive

Before You Drive

• Adjust mirrors and seat — does everything work?
• Check for warning lights — any yellow or red alerts on the screen?
• Brake pedal feel — firm, not spongy

During the Drive

• Acceleration — floor it briefly (safely). The car should pull hard and smooth with no hesitation, vibration, or unusual noise.
• Regenerative braking — lift off the accelerator. The car should slow smoothly. Jerky regen may indicate a battery issue.
• Steering — should be responsive with no play or pulling to one side
• Suspension — drive over speed bumps and rough pavement. Listen for clunks, rattles, or squeaks. Some road noise is normal; metallic clunking is not.
• Brakes — test firm braking from 40 mph. The car should stop straight with no vibration or pulsing. (Note: Teslas primarily use regen braking, so the friction brakes may feel slightly grabby from infrequent use.)
• Highway driving — get on the highway. Check for wind noise (especially around the glass roof and door seals), vibration at speed, and tire noise.
• Autopilot (if safe) — engage basic Autopilot on a highway. Verify lane keeping and adaptive cruise work smoothly. The car should center in the lane and maintain following distance.
• Phantom braking — on the highway, note if the car brakes unexpectedly for no visible reason. Occasional phantom braking exists on all Teslas but frequent/hard phantom braking may indicate a camera or calibration issue.

After the Drive

• Energy consumption — check the energy screen. Note the Wh/mi for your drive. Unusually high consumption may indicate a battery or drivetrain issue.
• Any new warnings — did any alerts appear during the drive?

Documentation & History

• Title status — clean title only. Rebuilt/salvage titles are a major red flag for EVs (battery and structural concerns).
• VIN verification — match the VIN on the dashboard (lower driver-side windshield) to the title and registration
• Service history — request full service records from the seller. Tesla service centers keep records accessible via the Tesla app.
• Carfax or AutoCheck — pull a vehicle history report. Look for accident history, odometer rollback, and title issues.
• Recall status — check NHTSA.gov by VIN. Most Tesla recalls are OTA software updates, but verify all have been completed.
• Loan/lien status — verify no outstanding loans on the vehicle. A lien on the title means the seller doesn't fully own the car.
• Registration and inspection — current registration. Some states require annual safety inspection.
• Original window sticker — helpful for verifying original options and MSRP (useful for price negotiation)

Deal Breakers

Walk away immediately if:

1. Salvage or rebuilt title — structural and battery damage may be hidden. Insurance and financing are difficult.
2. Battery health below 80% at any mileage — significant degradation indicates a problem.
3. Seller refuses inspection — any legitimate seller welcomes a thorough inspection.
4. Active safety recalls not completed — especially any requiring physical service (not OTA).
5. Signs of flood damage — water line marks in the trunk, musty smell, corroded connectors. Flood damage on an EV is extremely dangerous.
6. Odometer discrepancy — mileage on the screen doesn't match the title/Carfax.
7. VIN swap or mismatch — VIN on dashboard, door jamb, and title must all match.
8. Major accident on Carfax with no corresponding repair documentation — if the car was in a significant accident, you want to see professional repair records.